Slovenian version of the blog can be found here.
A few years ago – shortly after returning from this trip – I wrote a pretty solid blog post capturing most of the feelings, details, memories, must-see spots, and other things we experienced. But, like many blogs, it eventually ended up in the trash. Today, I’m bringing this journey back to life.
Dates: January 7–23, 2019
Duration: 17 days
Travel Crew: Blaž (me, the writer), Dora (Dragon Mother), and Ina (our fearless 2-year-old commander)
The Route:
- Negombo (2 nights) – For jet-lag recovery
- Unawatuna (4 nights) – Surfing, sunsets, and seafood
- Tangalle (5 nights) – Quiet beaches and monkey business
- Nuwara Eliya (1 night) – Tea plantations and waterfalls
- Ella (2 nights) – Iconic train rides and mountain vibes
- Udawalawe (1 night) – Safari and wild elephants
- Negombo (1 night) – A sweet ending with lobster and beers
How It Started
We kicked off our journey from Zagreb’s airport, shiny, modern, and surprisingly empty (why can’t all airports be like this?).
A smooth flight brought us to Doha, and from there, we continued to Colombo, Sri Lanka’s capital.
Colombo’s airport is technically in Negombo, a smaller town just outside the city. After a long flight, we wanted to ease into the adventure, so we booked a homestay with Marjan and his lovely family.
Day 1 in Negombo
Sleep-deprived but excited, we were greeted with big smiles, warm hospitality, and a traditional Sri Lankan breakfast that set the tone for the trip. Bonus: Marjan’s kids immediately adopted Ina as their new best friend.
Our first sunset on the beach? Jaw-dropping. Golden skies, palm trees, and a gentle breeze—it was the perfect introduction to Sri Lanka’s tropical vibe.
Negombo: The Gateway to Chaos (in a Good Way)
Negombo is like a warm-up for what’s to come. It’s a bustling little town filled with tuk-tuks, narrow canals, colorful markets, and chaotic streets.
The beaches here aren’t the main attraction (a bit too much trash), but the town’s charm lies in its lively streets and local vibes. You’ll see fishermen selling their fresh catch, kids playing football on the beach, and tuk-tuks zipping around like they’re in a high-speed race.
Pro tip: Spend a day or two here to adjust to the new time zone and climate, then move on to Sri Lanka’s real gems.
Central Sri Lanka: Tea, Trains & Stunning Views
Our host Marjan had a brilliant idea: a 5-day road trip with a private van, cozy accommodations, and a curated itinerary. For €250, it was a no-brainer.
Stop 1: Nuwara Eliya
Known as “Little England,” this hill town is famous for its lush tea plantations and cool climate. We toured a tea factory, learned about the tea-making process, and tasted everything from green to black to white tea.
Fun Fact: Green, black, and white tea all come from the same plant! The difference? How they’re dried and processed. White tea, made from hand-picked baby leaves, is the priciest (and tastiest).
The views here were straight out of a postcard—rolling hills, misty forests, and cascading waterfalls.
Stop 2: Ella
Ella is a laid-back village surrounded by mountains and famous for its scenic train ride. We hopped on the iconic blue train and enjoyed jaw-dropping views of tea fields, bridges, and mist-covered peaks.
Ella itself is touristy but charming. Think cozy cafes, craft shops, and lively streets. We hiked Little Adam’s Peak, cheered at a local cricket match, and soaked up the chilled-out vibes.
Stop 3: Udawalawe National Park
Safari time! We visited Udawalawe, one of Sri Lanka’s top national parks, to see elephants in their natural habitat. And wow, it didn’t disappoint.
A massive bull elephant crossed the road right in front of us—majestic and a little intimidating! While we spotted plenty of elephants and birds, the safari itself was a bit underwhelming (our guide wasn’t super into it).
Tip: Skip the safari and look for elephants in the wild—they’re everywhere in Sri Lanka!
Unawatuna: Surfing & Sick Days
After the hills, we headed south to Unawatuna, a vibrant beach town. Our homestay was run by a family of surfers, so naturally, I signed up for lessons.
Surfing 101: Paddle, wipeout, repeat. By day two, I was standing on the board (for three seconds, but still a win!).
The downside? Ina caught a fever, which meant a trip to the local doctor. Thanks to our hosts and some remote advice from a doctor friend in Slovenia, we got the right antibiotics, and Ina was back to her cheerful self in no time.
Between surf sessions, doctor visits, and lazy beach days, we discovered Unawatuna’s food scene—fresh seafood, spicy curries, and cold beers. Don’t miss Bonavista Bay for beginner-friendly waves and epic sunsets.
Tangalle: Beach Bliss
Our final stop was Tangalle, a sleepy town on Sri Lanka’s southern coast. We stayed in a beachfront bungalow, where mornings started with fresh fruit and tea, and evenings ended with grilled fish and pina coladas.
Tangalle is perfect for families. The beaches are quiet, the pace is slow, and the sunsets? Unforgettable. We spent our days building sandcastles, spotting monkeys, and chatting with other travelers.
Full Circle: Back to Negombo
We wrapped up our trip where it started—with Marjan and his family. Ina reunited with her mini BFFs, we feasted on lobster (a first for us!), and toasted to an unforgettable adventure under the stars.
Final Thoughts: Sri Lanka is magical. It’s vibrant, welcoming, and full of surprises. Whether you’re sipping tea in the hills, spotting elephants in the wild, or riding waves on the southern coast, there’s something for everyone.
Would we do it again? In a heartbeat.
Unfortunately, the situation in Sri Lanka has changed significantly since our visit. Poor political decisions and global challenges have brought this beautiful country—renowned for its incredible natural beauty and even more remarkable people—to its knees. Tourism, which made up a significant part of the country’s economy, has collapsed, terrorist attacks have eroded travelers’ trust, and the local government has lost its direction, credibility, and vision.
Today, many countries advise against traveling to Sri Lanka due to the unpredictable political climate.
That said, Sri Lanka will forever remain a land that’s perfect for exploring, even with a small child. The warmth of its people, stunning landscapes, and breathtaking wildlife will leave no one indifferent.
Budget and Costs
- Flights: €1,500 (for all three of us)
- Accommodation: €10–50 per night
- Street food: ~€1 per meal
- Restaurant meals: €5–10 per meal
- Transportation: Half-day drive from the south to Colombo ~€30
- Guided tour (5 days): €250 (includes transport, some meals, and recommendations)
- Beer: €1–2
- Cocktails: €1–2
- Street fruit: A whole bag of mangoes, bananas, and passionfruit ~€0.50
